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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.